Flooring FAQ

Both products will look and perform the same once installed. The choice depends on the type of subfloor you have and the grade level where you want to install the wood flooring. Solid wood requires a wood subfloor to nail to and cannot be installed below grade (below ground level) due to increased moisture in basements. If you want to glue down solid wood, you must use a specialized glue. The manufacturer of the wood flooring must allow glue-down installation for their product. Engineered wood can be installed on all grade levels and on either wood or concrete subfloors. For products with wider widths, engineered wood is a better choice because it experiences less gapping during drier seasons compared to solid wood.

A floating floor is a type of installation where the wood flooring is not attached to the subfloor. The boards are affixed together by gluing the Tongue and Groove (T G) or by using a locking system. They are installed over an underlayment and will expand and contract as a whole. A floating installation is the least expensive method of installation and can be done over wood or concrete subfloors.

For a glue down installation, the boards are installed using a full spread, moisture cured adhesive. You can install the flooring on a wood or concrete subfloor.

For a nail down installation, you can use hardwood flooring fasteners, staples, or cleats. Follow the manufacturer’s installation guidelines for subfloor specifications and fastener schedules, as each product may have slightly different instructions.

A glue together system means that a D3-type glue is used in the tongue and groove to bond the boards together. A locking system means the tongue and groove of the boards have a special profile that will mechanically lock into place without glue. It can be either a click or a drop in system.

It is not necessary to use glue in the tongue and grove of a mechanical locking system if it is manufactured properly. Always follow manufactures instructions.

All wood flooring will expand and contract with the changes of the seasons due to increased or decreased humidity levels. A space (expansion gap) is needed around the perimeter of each room and all vertical obstructions to allow for this natural movement especially for a floating floor. The amount of space to leave is slightly different between products and should be specified in the manufacturer’s instructions.

No. For a floating system, only one layer of foam is needed. The foam should be a maximum of 1/8″ thick. If the underlayment has too much of a cushion, it could cause excessive vertical movement, which can compromise the joints and result in gapping.

For a floating installation, the boards are affixed to each other and the flooring will expand and contract as a whole. Each room wants to expand and contract independently. Push/pull or shear forces will be transferred to the small section of flooring in the doorway or connecting way adjoining the two surfaces can cause buckling or gapping. Also, if you want to change the direction of the boards, you can use an expansion transitional moulding to separate the two areas.

No. Regular glue does not provide the elasticity to cope with the constantly changing pressures imposed by foot steps. Brittleness of regular glue may cause the glue to fracture and the bonds will let go causing the planks to separate from each other. You need to use D3 PVAC (polyvinyl acetate) glue which is formulated for floating floors. We recommend our Deccobond 18 Tongue and Groove glue.

No. You should not glue the T G when using a glued down application. You will get some larger gaps in some joints due to some sections will panelize (sections of flooring with joints snug together with the surrounding joints having gaps)

You should use a construction adhesive. Apply just enough adhesive to the underside of the moulding and nail it in place with two or three finishing nails on a slight angle until the glue cures. Countersink the nail heads to be filled later. For stair treads, use the same method except that you use three finishing nails, one on each side, approximately 2″ from the wall, and one in the center of the tread.

No. We recommend installing our wood flooring with a full spread moisture cured urethane adhesive using the proper trowel recommended by the glue manufacture. Using water based glue, the water is absorbed by the bottom side of the flooring and can cause the board ends to raise. Our glue is warrantied over radiant heat.

For concrete subfloors, you may use foam or cork underlayment on top of a vapour barrier, such as our UV rated CBSB 6mil poly. However, you may use just our Vapour Barrier (VB) foam as well. Proper vapour barrier prevents moisture from being absorbed by your wood flooring from the concrete subfloor.

For wood subfloors, you may use any foam or cork of your choice. However, we do not recommend by using of vapour barrier like our 6mil poly. Wood subfloor cannot breathe under a vapour barrier and therefore may create or escalate moisture problems. For a staple down application, a black asphalt Kraft paper or 15lb felt should be used. This is to minimize moisture movement between the subfloor and the wood flooring and, also, to help slide planks in place easily during installation and reduce the potential squeaking of the flooring.

Most of our engineered wood flooring is warrantied for installing over an in-floor hot water radiant heated slab. It is important to maintain the radiant heat temperature to a consistent level during the heating season. In the fall, slowly turn up the heat to the desired level (see manufacturer’s recommendations) and, in the spring, slowly turn it down. This is to ensure the wood does not dry out too quickly causing cupping or checking (or any deformation) of the wood boards. Throughout the year, maintain the humidity levels within the recommended range by the wood manufacturer. It is important that you follow the wood instructions.

A solid and flat subfloor provides the foundation for your wood flooring to perform properly. A flat surface reduces vertical movement of your flooring which minimizes the chance of having a squeaky or crackly floor.

The maximum tolerance of unevenness we recommend is 3/16″ per 10 feet for engineered wood, floating and glue down applications, and 1/4″ per 10 feet for solid wood, a nail/staple application. You may grind or sand down the high points with #20 grit paper; for the low points, you may fill them with appropriate leveling compound.

A floating system is the least expensive installation with the use of our Firma Foam which is good quality foam. See Underlayment FAQ for details.

You may have a different subfloor than your neighbors so the installation can be different. If you still want a floating floor, you can choose a cork underlayment because it is more firm and also will lessen the hollow sound. You also can choose a more solid installation like a glue down or nail/staple down application, depending on what kind of subfloor you have.

A floating floor expands and contracts as a whole. A 40 linear foot floating floor would move more during the natural expansion and contraction. Larger expansion gaps must be reserved for that purpose. You may use a thick enough base shoe and/or baseboard to cover the gap or undercut the drywall to increase the space for the expansion. Note: This method is only for a larger room, not multiple rooms creating longer spans.

Anything attached to the floating floor or an extremely heavy piece of furniture will restrict the natural movement of the flooring. Kitchen islands with appliances installed in them should not sit on top of flooring due to the electrical wires and/or plumbing that goes through the flooring and into the subfloor. Also, large islands with thick granite countertop may be too heavy. In situations like this, the flooring should be installed around the island with a base shoe to cover the gap or the flooring can run slightly under the toe-kick. If the flooring has already been installed and you want to put in an island, a hole should be cut in the flooring following the shape of the base of the cabinet (including enough space for expansion) and install the base shoe to hide the expansion space. Contact your hardwood flooring professional for the best options for you.

Wood flooring has an ideal comfort level and will perform best under the recommended conditions from the manufacturer. Wood flooring will expand in a moist environment and contract in a dry environment. The wider the swing in humidity levels, the more the flooring will move which can cause the floor boards to check, warp or deform. It is recommended that a humidifier and/or a dehumidifier be installed in the home to control humidity levels to minimize the movement. Consult a HVAC specialist for advice.

This depends on how you use your floor. Your floor should last a lifetime. Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance guidelines and your floorings finish should last for years. If you have a very active family or large pets, your flooring may have to be refinished sooner. Types of refinishing floors are sand and refinish, screen and recoat or chemical recoat. A hardwood flooring professional can tell you which option is right for you.

When footprints are left on the floor after walking on the floor immediately after cleaning, it is an indication that there is a film on the flooring and it was not taken off by the cleaning method used. Review and follow the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions. If that does not work, contact the flooring professional where you purchased your flooring for advice.

Yes. You can replace a single board or a section in any kind of installed wood flooring. If the damage is minimal, there are repair kits available, depending on the type of damage. If one or a few boards are damaged beyond repair, a single board replacement using an industry standard method can be used. The replaced section or board may be a different color due to the aging of the flooring. The color of the new boards will eventually even out over time. Consult your hardwood flooring professional for advice on the best course of action.

When wood flooring is making objectionable noises when walked upon, it means that the flooring has excessive movement. This can be caused by many factors, such as expansion issues, uneven subfloor, improper installation methods, etc. If it is a significant problem, you should get your flooring inspected by a certified wood flooring inspector and they can pinpoint the cause then a remedy can be determined.

For prefinished flooring with a UV cured urethane on the surface, we recommend using our Deccobond 18 Glue Remover. It will remove the following:

• Residual Acrylic glue smudges
• Residual uncured urethane glues
• Mastic and tar on floors
• Contact cement residues
• Tacky glue and foam tapes
• Tapes and label residue
• Fabric and carpet spot remover

The following conditions can restrict the movement of a floating floor:

• Inadequate expansion space:
  • Insufficient expansion space around the perimeter of the room or vertical obstructions.
  • Debris filling the expansion space, such as rocks, glue, dirt, etc.
  • Excessive spans due to no expansion transitional mouldings installed in doorways or connecting ways.
• Items attached to the flooring:
  • Bottom hardware of bi-fold closet doors screwed into the flooring.
  • Island cabinets in kitchens screwed into the flooring.
  • Excess glue can ooze out from moulding when placing moulding in place; when cured, the glue can bond to the flooring, pinning it.
  • Nails driven through the flooring into the subfloor.
  • Baseboard or base shoe nails improperly placed sitting in expansion space.
  • Improperly installed heating registers.
  • Bookcases, cabinets, etc., screwed into the flooring.